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A sandpoint well is the easiest, most affordable type of well you can install yourself. Think of it like hammering a giant straw into the ground—you drive a pointed, screened pipe deep enough to reach water-bearing sand or gravel, then pump water up to the surface.
Materials cost $200-$800 compared to $3,000-$15,000 for a drilled well
Most people complete the project in a single day with basic tools
Just a sledgehammer, pipe wrenches, and basic materials
Perfect for: Garden irrigation, livestock watering, cabin water supply, emergency backup water, or anywhere you need an affordable water source.
Before you start, you need to know if your property is suitable. Here's how to find out:
The Simple Test: Dig down 2-3 feet in your yard. If you hit sand, gravel, or loose soil, you're good to go. Heavy clay or rock? A sandpoint well will be very difficult.
Ask Around: Check with neighbors who have wells. If they have shallow wells or sandpoint wells nearby, you're likely in good shape.
Use Soil Maps: Visit the USDA Web Soil Survey (websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov) and look for sandy loam, sand, or gravelly soil classifications.
Look for surface clues like wetlands, springs, or creeks nearby. A damp basement is also a good indicator. Talk to local well drillers—they know typical water table depths for your area. Most of New England and many other parts of the US have surprisingly shallow water tables perfect for sandpoint wells.
Note: These materials are available at most hardware stores and well supply retailers. Shop around for the best prices on your components.
Here's exactly what you'll do to install your sandpoint well:
Clean all pipes with soapy water to remove oil residue. Gather your well point, galvanized pipes, special well couplings, smash cap, and pipe dope.
Pick a spot at least 50-100 feet from your septic system, preferably in a lower area of your yard (closer to the water table). Always call 811 before you dig!
Use a post hole digger to get down about 4 feet. This clears any rocks or roots in the upper soil and makes driving much easier.
Connect your well point to the first pipe section with pipe dope and a coupling. Attach the smash cap. Start hammering the pipe into the ground, keeping it perfectly vertical.
When the pipe is about 2 feet above ground, add another section with pipe dope and couplings. Tighten with two large pipe wrenches. Keep driving. Repeat until you hit water.
Every 5 feet, pour water down the pipe and check the level. When water stays constant or rises, you've hit the water table! Add one more section to ensure your well point sits far enough below the water line.
Pour buckets of water down the pipe to flush out sediment. Pump or bail out the water repeatedly until it runs clear (usually about 15 minutes).
Soak your pitcher pump in water for an hour to rehydrate the leather gaskets. Thread it onto the pipe with Teflon tape. Prime it by pouring water in the top while pumping. Soon you'll see clear water flowing!
Reading about it is one thing — watching someone do it makes all the difference. See exactly how a sandpoint well goes from zero to flowing water in a single day, with real-world tips you won't find in any manual.
Video and photos are property of @SilverCymbal on YouTube!
Before drinking your well water, get it tested by your local health department or a certified lab. If you're only using it for irrigation or livestock, you can use it right away.
Sandpoint wells are often exempt from regulations, but always check with your city or county first. Some areas require permits or have specific setback distances.
Unfortunately, hitting an obstruction is always a possibility. If your pipe won't go deeper, try wiggling it back and forth, pull out what you can, and relocate a few feet away. The good news: hitting water is much more likely than hitting an impassable rock!
Absolutely! You can start with a simple pitcher pump and upgrade to an electric shallow well jet pump later. You can even combine multiple sandpoint wells for greater water output.
While a pitcher pump is great to get started, adding an AC booster pump transforms your sandpoint well into a reliable, pressurized water system. This means you can run sprinklers, supply outdoor faucets, or even connect to your home's plumbing system.
Built-in variable frequency drive adjusts automatically - no pressure tank needed
Run multiple hoses, sprinklers, or faucets with steady pressure throughout
Connect directly to your well - the smart pump does all the work
Select a continuous pressure AC booster pump designed for shallow wells (under 25 feet). These modern pumps use variable frequency drive (VFD) technology to automatically maintain constant pressure without needing a pressure tank. At RPS Water Pumps, we specialize in these continuous pressure systems and can help you select the perfect pump size for your sandpoint well and water needs. Give us a call today at 855-560-5670!
Call for Sizing and Pricing »Cut your sandpoint well pipe to the desired height (typically 6-12 inches above ground). Install a 90-degree elbow fitting if you want horizontal piping. Make sure all connections use Teflon tape for a watertight seal.
Mount the AC booster pump on a stable platform near your well (protect from weather if possible). Connect the intake side to your well pipe and the output side directly to your distribution lines. Use a check valve on the intake side to prevent backflow.
Most AC booster pumps run on standard 120V household power. Have a qualified electrician install a dedicated GFCI-protected outlet near your pump location if needed. Never run extension cords for permanent installations.
Fill the pump housing with water through the priming port. This is critical—pumps can't pull water if they're full of air. Once primed, turn on the pump and check for leaks. The system should build pressure and shut off automatically when the tank is full.
Most continuous pressure booster pumps have a simple control panel where you can set your desired water pressure (typically 40-60 PSI). The pump's VFD automatically adjusts motor speed to maintain that exact pressure, whether you're running one faucet or five.
If your pump is outdoors, build a small pump house or insulated enclosure. In cold climates, you'll need heat tape and insulation on pipes to prevent freezing. Some people install the pump in a shed or basement and run buried lines from the well.
Our sister company, RPS Solar Pumps, offers solar-powered booster pumps as well as narrow submersible pumps that can be used in sandpoint wells with a pipe inner diameter of at least 2.067". Go off-grid with clean, renewable energy! Check out RPS Solar Pumps booster pumps here »
Get your sandpoint well working with a pitcher pump first, then upgrade to the booster pump once you know your water source is solid.
Modern VFD booster pumps eliminate the need for pressure tanks and switches—they're quieter, more efficient, and provide perfectly consistent water pressure.
In cold climates, drain the system before winter or keep it heated and insulated in a pump house.
Place a filter between your well and pump to protect the pump from sand damage and extend its life.
Mount your pump as close to the well as practical, but in a location where you can protect it from weather and access it for maintenance.
Where RPS Water Pumps Comes In: We specialize in continuous pressure AC booster pumps that make your sandpoint well perform like a professionally drilled system. Our VFD-equipped pumps provide rock-solid constant pressure without the hassle of pressure tanks or switches. Whether you're dealing with a 15-foot shallow well or need to push water uphill to your house, we have the expertise and equipment to help you succeed. Give us a call today at 855-560-5670!
Call for Sizing and Pricing »At RPS Water Pumps, we're experts in continuous pressure booster pumps that turn your sandpoint well into a reliable, pressurized water system. No pressure tanks. No pressure switches. Just constant, reliable pressure. Let's talk about your setup!
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